Other repair work done in years past
a) HVAC Sword - I was lucky, it only needed a single solder joint repaired, not replacement of the power transistors. Sign of failure was random fan operation, tracked down by wiggling the connector. A DIY repair saved nearly a thousand dollars. The tiny crack in the solder joint could only be seen with a magnifying glass.
b) DIY Microfilter replacement - the most painful part was the local dealer charging $80 for the new element. A fairly easy replacement on this RHD model.
c) Radiator - the dealer replaced this - a common failure item.
d) "Trans Program" error message - dealer fixed with disassembly and cleaning of the transmission program selector switch.
e) Thrust arm bushings - dealer replaced at about 120,000 km.
f) "1 BRAKE LT OUT" error message. DIY repair - caused by poor contact of the brake light bulb holder with the housing contacts. If you look carefully you will notice that when the carrier is installed and the contacts compressed, the tension of the bulb base contact is subsequently reduced. Very poor design, unfortunately.
g) Tyre replacement (or "tire" for the yanks). I saved over NZ$100 a tyre here in NZ by using the narrowest size allowed for this car. Rather than stay with he 225/60-R15 originally fitted, the equivalent-overall-diameter 205/65-R15 is allowed per the owners manual and doesn't overly affect the handling or appearance. Apparently this size is more common here and is bought in higher volume. I picked a set of Uniroyal "The Rain Tyre".
h) The NZ Warrant of Fitness "technicians" failed us for having the drivers-side (right side) headlight cutoff on the wrong side. The light was replaced several years ago due to minor accident but somehow the WOF people had failed to spot this (that's what they're paid to do) during any of the previous 6-month-interval tests. Well, after not finding anything about this on the myriad of BMW web sites, I took it apart and discovered two things: (1) the cutoff (at least on our car) is only present on the driver's side low-beam, and (2) the rear half of the light assembly can be loosened and rotated by about 10° to place the flat portion of the cutout on the driver's side as it should be. Yah! ... and bollocks to On Road. I'm subsequently wondering if that light unit should be switched to the passenger side?